Now there are a lot of us who live around this parts full-time but there are some who don’t and many of those part-time residents and home owners close down their cabins in the fall so that the colder winter weather doesn’t ruin the plumbing or other fixtures.

Most people think of winterizing as it relates to plumbing because broken pipes can create a lot of havoc but there are other considerations, too.

Outdoor Sprinklers & Landscaping
This year we shut off the outside watering system in September–just before the freeze hit.

I usually shut off the sprinkler controls and then turn off the water at the house (not the meter). We make sure to open all the spigots to drain the sprinkling system. Since I am on a hill and all the spigots are downhill–this works well.

I don’t worry about the external faucets here but you can find insulated external faucet covers. Many folks wrap outdoor faucets with insulation or rags and then cover them with plastic.

Usually I leave the ground cover in place until spring. Although this year I decided to pull out some of the dead plants because they were tall and a fire hazard. Dead or dormant plants insulate the ground nicely and I’ve had mountain gardeners pull tasty treats from the ground midwinter–growing under the coverage!

Indoor Plumbing
Most people shut the water off at the source and then bleed the water lines and water heater lines. Some people leave the water on but winterize the pipe lines with insulation or heating tape to prevent freezing.

You can protect sink, bathtub, and shower drain traps by pouring about 1 cup of plumbing antifreeze down each drain. Make sure to use the non-toxic type of antifreeze called propylene glycol in products such as Sierra Antifreeze.

Electricity
Some people turn off the circuits to their home. It is a good idea to unplug unused electrical appliances because they draw phantom electricity even when they are not being used.

Air Conditioning
Most of the older homes up here do not have central air conditioning but it is more common than it was previously. Make sure to cover the outside condenser and if you use a window air conditioning unit be sure to  weatherize it with insulation and plastic.

Windows
Some people will cover their windows with shutters, plywood, or plastic because it helps prevent snow and ice buildup on ledges. In addition to protecting any wood frame, this also helps to prevent the ice and snow from melting and seeping into the cabin.

I use faux double panes on my windows. The plastic sheets are in the screen frame and protect the windows while also raising the inside temperature of the house about five degrees.

Miscellaneous
Roofing: Unclogging any rain gutters before the winter is a good idea so that they will work well and any melt will run off. We don’t have a large problem with ice dams in the gutters around these parts due to the warm winters but it is a good idea to clear the gutters of snow to prevent the ice melt freeze cycle that cause the issue.

I’ve got a metal roof which keeps the buildup on the roof to a minimum but roof rakes are popular and some people install snow melting heat elements over the eves to avoid this problem.

Vents
Make sure to check that house foundation vents and any roof air vents are clear.

Septic
Many people take time just before winter to do some septic tank maintenance by adding a commercial septic treatment product or an enzyme product to aid in breaking down solids.

Patio
Many people will store their patio furniture indoors for the winter. I leave mine out but use linseed oil to help buffer the elements.

Now I am SURE that you have some tips and hints on this topic so why don’t you leave a comment below?

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One of the nice things about living in a small community is that everyone becomes framily so here is some of the scuttlebutt.

Betty Sunseri wrote a nice note thanking everyone for coming out to see her. She enjoyed herself greatly.

The community tends to band together to support those in need. Bill Dunn (of Captain’s Anchorage fame) recently suffered a heart attack and this Friday at 7pm there will be a fundraising event at “the hook” (aka Captain’s Anchorage). A $5 donation will be taken at the door–but you can give more to help with medical expenses etc.

Southwest Gas is currently holding their annual community winter coat drive to support those in need. If you have any coats you are not using, drop them off. Coats will be distributed to needy persons November 5th.

Seven-year-old Nigel Holland is undergoing chemotherapy and radiation. Another fundraiser will be help for him on November 12, 2008.

Locally, Mike (Ayman) is back from his honeymoon and working at Fawnskin Market. Drop by to welcome him back. Nawar should be joining us in about six months or so.

If you want to get some of the scoop from around town, drop by Moose Lodge 2085. The white board in the back fills you in on anyone who is sick or has passed away recently. To the left is the birthday board (in case you need a reason to celebrate) and then behind the bar are two boards so you can learn who sponsored a new member and is benefiting from the effort!

Have any local news? Leave a comment below.

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Although you wouldn’t know it at the moment but it is time to start thinking about winterizing your boats. The weather has been warm but the nights are cool and it won’t be long until winter is here.

Locals know that it pays off to winterize your boat–otherwise you are in for trouble down the road. If you do it right you’ll continue to preserve your boat’s performance and it will save you time and money come spring.

The consequences for not winterizing your boat? Poor performance and increased expense down the road–plus most insurance policies don’t cover damage due to lack of maintenance or neglect.

Now for those fancy boat owners that have places down the hill who store their boat out of the water, under a cover, and in a climate-controlled boat storage area–good for you–but that is not how the mountain folk people store their boats.

Up here shrink-wrapping your boat is the favorite method and although it is fairly expensive, it provides a good protective cover.

We have a few places up here that do the job for you and it is always good to have a professional that does many, many boats a year instead of attempting to do it yourself.

Now around these parts some boats are only protected by a tarp or some other sturdy cover. A very few people can store their boats in a nice garage but a word of caution, the mice tend to get carried away if you don’t protect your boat–so take the time to do it right.

If you are not sure just what to do, pull out your boat owner’s manual to see just what is recommended for your make and model.

Below is How To Winterize Your Boat a guest post by Christopher Miley from ezinearticles.

Winterizing your boat is the single most important maintenance duty that you will have to perform as a boat owner. If it is done correctly, very little work will be required to get the boat ready for the water in the spring. Proper winterization greatly extends the life of the boat and its engine by protecting its components from freezing, corrosion and lying idle for long periods.

The first step in the winterization process is to ensure that the boat’s fuel tank is full - leave just a little room for expansion - and add fuel stabilizer in accordance with the instructions on the product. If the fuel tank isn’t full you run the risk of condensation forming within the tank which can lead to corrosion and clogging.

Turn off fuel valves and seal through-hull exhaust ports with duct tape. Replace the water separator and the fuel filter.

Protecting Your Engine

Run the engine for a while to warm it up and change the oil while it’s warm. This allows many of the impurities in the oil to be drained away. Change the oil filters. If your engine uses coolant drain the current fluid from the engine block and manifolds and replace it with a propylene glycol based antifreeze.

When a boat is not being used, oil tends to settle at the bottom of the engine block, exposing the pistons and valves to air, humidity and other corrosive materials. To avoid this situation remove the spark plugs and spray “fogging oil” inside the carburetor and into each cylinder. Replace the spark plugs without reconnecting the wires.

Replace the engine’s old gear oil with fresh oil. Dispose of any used oil at an authorized recycling center.

Outboards

Flush outboard engines with fresh water. Allow all water to drain from the engine and wash down the engine with soap and water. Disconnect the fuel hose and run the engine until it stops. It is important to ensure that all fuel is drained from the carburetor. Use fogging oil in the cylinders. Apply water resistant grease to propeller shaft and threads, and lightly lubricate the exterior of the engine or polish with a quality wax. Change the gear oil in the lower unit.

If your boat will be stored out of the water during the off season, disconnect the battery and store it at home. Boats left in the water should have the battery left in place on board and functioning so the bilge pump will continue to function if required. If you are removing the battery from the boat, ensure it is fully charged before stowing it away. Recharge every 30-60 days or keep on a trickle charger during the storage period and check the water level from time to time.

It is also sensible to remove any valuable marine electronics from the boat for the winter, and to store this equipment in a safe place to avoid theft and possible damage caused by temperature changes and humidity. The winterization process also offers an opportunity to inspect items like lines, flotation devices, flares, fire extinguishers, etc., for wear and tear and possible replacement.

Propeller

This is also a good time to check your boat’s propeller and hub. Bent or nicked propeller blades will diminish performance. The hub may also be have sustained extensive wear. If this type of damage is apparent, replace the propeller and make any necessary repairs during the winterizing process.

Clean, Clean, Clean

Clean the boat thoroughly inside and out. If you store your boat with dirt, scum, barnacles and the like on the exterior, these impurities will be even harder to remove in the spring. After the exterior of the boat has been cleaned, apply a quality polish to the exterior surfaces to create a protective barrier against dirt and dust. Clean the interior, including all timber, vinyl and carpet.

To help keep your boat free from mildew, you may wish to install a dehumidifier or use a moisture absorber. Turn any cushions up on edge so that air can circulate around them, or better yet, remove them from the boat.

Drain and clean the bilges. (If your boat will be stored out of the water remove all drain plugs and put them in a place where they’ll be easy to find when relaunching your boat in the spring.) Spray the bilges with moisture displacing lubricant and add a little antifreeze.

Empty The Head

Pump out the holding tank at an approved facility. While pumping, add fresh water to the bowl and flush several times. Use an approved cleaner for your type of system, and let the solution sit for a few minutes before adding more fresh water and pumping it out again. Add antifreeze and pump the coolant through the hoses, holding tank, Y-valve, macerator and discharge hose. Check your owner’s manual to be sure that an alcohol based antifreeze won’t damage your system.

Water Tanks

Drain the fresh water tank and any hot water heater. Isolate the hot water heater by disconnecting the in and out lines and connecting them together. Pump non-toxic antifreeze through the system by turning on all the taps / shower until the antifreeze starts coming out. Add non-toxic antifreeze to the water heater.

Put it on Blocks

If you own a trailer boat, consider putting the boat and trailer up on blocks for winter to take the pressure off the tires. Inspect the trailer and tires for wear and tear. Grease the wheel bearings and replace if necessary.

If at all possible, store your boat undercover. If you need to leave it outdoors you’ll require a boat cover. A good quality 8- to 10-ounce canvas boat cover should be adequate for most situation. Even undercover the boat should be covered to protect against dust and dirt, pests and bird droppings. For extreme conditions you could consider shrink-wrapping the boat. Do-it-yourself kits are available.

Chris Miley is the owner of Marine Diesel Secrets where you will find information to assist you in maintaining your own marine diesel engine and The Pontoon Boat Site where you will find additional information on winterizing your marine engine.

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